Hi all,
Yesterday, we spent the entire day and into the evening on the Wairau River attempting to fish. Another incredibly beautiful, braided river system in the middle of a valley with the northern coastal range jutting up on one side, and hundreds of acres of grapes on another side with the foothills of the Kaikoura Range beyond that. The day was sunny and warm and as happens when you are fishing--time passes and passes and before you know it you are sunburned beyond belief. I did not see or catch one fish. The only thing I did catch was the fishing game warden. Two guys sauntered up and engaged me in conversation for a while before presenting their badges. I, ofcourse, did not have my fishing license--Joel did. But it became clear to them that I was not a criminal and I did in fact purchase my license in a teeny weeny town of about 25 people. We were hot and tired and knew we were not going to make the New Year's celebration in town. So, instead we had yet another fabulous Indian dinner, got back and showered and layered on goop for burns and promptly went to sleep.
We left for Picton (25 minutes away) this morning and were glad that we returned here. We had been here a year ago. It is such a special place. We took a very long hike out one of the arms that extend into the Queen Charlotte Sound. It was incredibly hot and dry and much of the four hours of hiking was in the sun. I hobbled back into town and couldn't get to the store fast enough for a popsicle. We took cold showers and are just chilling right now. We continue to meet such nice people. We leave in the morning for Kaikoura--the scene of my little car mishap--and hope to go whale watching this time. Happy New Year for reals up there. Much Love, Linny
Thursday, December 31, 2009
Tuesday, December 29, 2009
Hot and Dry
Hi!
This morning we actually acted like we were on vacation--lazed around and took our time before leaving for a hike. We decided to hike the hills above Blenheim. Blenheim is in the Wauhau Valley--a place of moderate climate on the northeast coast of the South Island. The weather is similar to California and much of the geography is similar to the northern part of California with its dry rolling hills and eucalyptus trees. The valley is home to many vineyards--known primarily for Sauvignon Blanc and other white wines. We began the hike by perusing the track map that was posted beyond some fencing that held a herd of huge dairy cows. I'm not a fan of these big guys--in fact, I am a little scared of them. They are much bigger than ones I've seen in the US--they are around a half ton and stand quite tall. I took my walking stick for a little protection--ha ha.
The path began up a gentle slope lined with Queen Anne's lace, wild anise in yellow bloom, purple statice, orange poppies, many dry and beautiful grasses, century plants, young oak trees, acacia trees, lucerne trees, willows, poplars, young pines, and a variety of eucalyptus trees--one of which was in bloom with small fuchsia flowers. It was hot and dry. The next hour of the hike was up 900 ft by way of long curving switch-backed trails through acres of dry golden grass. The hills were round, tan and golden--punctuated occasionally by some green shrub or stand of eucalyptus that were usually in the folds and creases of the hills. They sky was blue and cloudless. The breeze was warm and dry. As we neared the top, I could feel a cooler breeze and the clouds began to move in to form beautiful moving shadows over the hills. From our vantage point on the ridge, the Pacific Ocean was to our right, the Kaikoura Range behind us, the valley and northern coastal range before us and the continuation of rolling hills and miles of vineyards to our left. When we began our hike, the southwesterly winds were coming from Australia--they are generally warm and gusting. (In fact, last night the winds were clocking in excess of 50mph and knocking down iron patio furniture at our motor lodge. It howled all night long.) We had been told by our hostess that the winds would be changing in about an hour and a half--and boy, was she right.
We were walking the ridge line and in the space of 10 minutes the winds changed--southerly wind from Antarctica, the temperature dropped 20 degrees or more and the gusts accelerated to about 50mph. We knew we had to head down quickly since we did not bring our warm gear. The closest path was straight down--no curves--steep incline on dry grass. With the high winds, the grasses were whipping our bare sunburned legs and stickers poking through our socks and into our boots. It was a fantastic hike for us--reminding us both of California when it was not built out--when as kids, you could build forts and play all day long and never worry about weirdos. The smell of eucalyptus . ....so great.
After lunch Joel promptly took a nap and I did the laundry (sound familiar girls?). We're still hoping to fish tomorrow if the winds die down. The day after that we will return to the Marlborough Sounds and hope to kayak or hike or just get out on the water. We are brown as brown can be. We hear there is snow in Portland and Bend and I am really not looking forward to that--but I am looking forward to being home and seeing loved ones. Talk to you soon. xo L
This morning we actually acted like we were on vacation--lazed around and took our time before leaving for a hike. We decided to hike the hills above Blenheim. Blenheim is in the Wauhau Valley--a place of moderate climate on the northeast coast of the South Island. The weather is similar to California and much of the geography is similar to the northern part of California with its dry rolling hills and eucalyptus trees. The valley is home to many vineyards--known primarily for Sauvignon Blanc and other white wines. We began the hike by perusing the track map that was posted beyond some fencing that held a herd of huge dairy cows. I'm not a fan of these big guys--in fact, I am a little scared of them. They are much bigger than ones I've seen in the US--they are around a half ton and stand quite tall. I took my walking stick for a little protection--ha ha.
The path began up a gentle slope lined with Queen Anne's lace, wild anise in yellow bloom, purple statice, orange poppies, many dry and beautiful grasses, century plants, young oak trees, acacia trees, lucerne trees, willows, poplars, young pines, and a variety of eucalyptus trees--one of which was in bloom with small fuchsia flowers. It was hot and dry. The next hour of the hike was up 900 ft by way of long curving switch-backed trails through acres of dry golden grass. The hills were round, tan and golden--punctuated occasionally by some green shrub or stand of eucalyptus that were usually in the folds and creases of the hills. They sky was blue and cloudless. The breeze was warm and dry. As we neared the top, I could feel a cooler breeze and the clouds began to move in to form beautiful moving shadows over the hills. From our vantage point on the ridge, the Pacific Ocean was to our right, the Kaikoura Range behind us, the valley and northern coastal range before us and the continuation of rolling hills and miles of vineyards to our left. When we began our hike, the southwesterly winds were coming from Australia--they are generally warm and gusting. (In fact, last night the winds were clocking in excess of 50mph and knocking down iron patio furniture at our motor lodge. It howled all night long.) We had been told by our hostess that the winds would be changing in about an hour and a half--and boy, was she right.
We were walking the ridge line and in the space of 10 minutes the winds changed--southerly wind from Antarctica, the temperature dropped 20 degrees or more and the gusts accelerated to about 50mph. We knew we had to head down quickly since we did not bring our warm gear. The closest path was straight down--no curves--steep incline on dry grass. With the high winds, the grasses were whipping our bare sunburned legs and stickers poking through our socks and into our boots. It was a fantastic hike for us--reminding us both of California when it was not built out--when as kids, you could build forts and play all day long and never worry about weirdos. The smell of eucalyptus . ....so great.
After lunch Joel promptly took a nap and I did the laundry (sound familiar girls?). We're still hoping to fish tomorrow if the winds die down. The day after that we will return to the Marlborough Sounds and hope to kayak or hike or just get out on the water. We are brown as brown can be. We hear there is snow in Portland and Bend and I am really not looking forward to that--but I am looking forward to being home and seeing loved ones. Talk to you soon. xo L
Monday, December 28, 2009
Blenheim
Hi everyone!
I think there is a pattern here: It goes like this--"we left blah blah town in the pouring rain . .." Well, this morning was no exception. It rained all last night and this morning in St Arnaud--a steady, heavy rain that made a pool of the parking lot in front of our cabin. We decided to leave and head east to Blenheim--smart move. Nobody on the gently curving country road that hugs a river and opens up to miles and miles of grapevines. It is sunny and warm and breezy. We secured a place to stay and I promptly went to the doctor's office. Interesting experience--the doc shows up in cutoffs and a t-shirt (standard dress). My asthma has continued to wear me down especially while hiking and I had run out of inhalers and you need a prescription for that, so . ..I had to do peak flow, brief exam, etc in order to get the script and run down to the pharmacy. Lunch, a little walk, and then scouting out fishing spots. We then drove to the beach and down other country roads looking for access to the rivers. We are going to hang here for a few days and dry out--then on to Kaikoura again (the scene of my little car mishap) to hike areas that we missed, and finally the last three days back at the lovely beach in Gore Bay. Hope you are all well and having a milder winter than the east coast! xo L
I think there is a pattern here: It goes like this--"we left blah blah town in the pouring rain . .." Well, this morning was no exception. It rained all last night and this morning in St Arnaud--a steady, heavy rain that made a pool of the parking lot in front of our cabin. We decided to leave and head east to Blenheim--smart move. Nobody on the gently curving country road that hugs a river and opens up to miles and miles of grapevines. It is sunny and warm and breezy. We secured a place to stay and I promptly went to the doctor's office. Interesting experience--the doc shows up in cutoffs and a t-shirt (standard dress). My asthma has continued to wear me down especially while hiking and I had run out of inhalers and you need a prescription for that, so . ..I had to do peak flow, brief exam, etc in order to get the script and run down to the pharmacy. Lunch, a little walk, and then scouting out fishing spots. We then drove to the beach and down other country roads looking for access to the rivers. We are going to hang here for a few days and dry out--then on to Kaikoura again (the scene of my little car mishap) to hike areas that we missed, and finally the last three days back at the lovely beach in Gore Bay. Hope you are all well and having a milder winter than the east coast! xo L
Sunday, December 27, 2009
Lake Rotoiti
Hello everyone,
We left Westport yesterday morning in the pouring rain. The road we took closely follows the Buller River through the Buller Gorge--a huge, wide river that was violently rushing with all the added water. We arrived in St Arnaud, a small town on the edge of the magnificent Lake Rotoiti. It was warm and humid because of the rain, which brought out the ferocious sandflies by the thousands. We tired of fighting them off and went back to our cabin to eat and watch TV. This morning, however, was completely different. The strong winds during the night had moved the humidity and the sandflies out. The sun was out and we left this morning for a hike around the lake. The path goes through beech forest, which is not unusual for us, but the smell was different. We cannot figure out why--maybe the black moss transforms in the heat. It smelled like vinegar! So, an hour and a half into the hike we moved onto the beach; dropped our clothes and jumped into the clear, cool ? cold water. We spread out on the rocks and soaked in the sun and watched clouds float overhead before hiking back. Stopped at the general store in search of root beer--sarsaparilla was the closest thing--and vanilla ice cream to make floats. Yummy on a warm day. Tomorrow we are leaving early for Blenheim--the wine country and wander down the coast over the next week. We've heard of the airport security situation and are planning to get to the airport much earlier than we had planned. We miss everyone and look forward to coming home and into a routine. Hugs, Linny
We left Westport yesterday morning in the pouring rain. The road we took closely follows the Buller River through the Buller Gorge--a huge, wide river that was violently rushing with all the added water. We arrived in St Arnaud, a small town on the edge of the magnificent Lake Rotoiti. It was warm and humid because of the rain, which brought out the ferocious sandflies by the thousands. We tired of fighting them off and went back to our cabin to eat and watch TV. This morning, however, was completely different. The strong winds during the night had moved the humidity and the sandflies out. The sun was out and we left this morning for a hike around the lake. The path goes through beech forest, which is not unusual for us, but the smell was different. We cannot figure out why--maybe the black moss transforms in the heat. It smelled like vinegar! So, an hour and a half into the hike we moved onto the beach; dropped our clothes and jumped into the clear, cool ? cold water. We spread out on the rocks and soaked in the sun and watched clouds float overhead before hiking back. Stopped at the general store in search of root beer--sarsaparilla was the closest thing--and vanilla ice cream to make floats. Yummy on a warm day. Tomorrow we are leaving early for Blenheim--the wine country and wander down the coast over the next week. We've heard of the airport security situation and are planning to get to the airport much earlier than we had planned. We miss everyone and look forward to coming home and into a routine. Hugs, Linny
Friday, December 25, 2009
West Coast
Hi all,
Hope you all had a wonderful day. We left this morning in a dense fog and rain across the mountain pass--headed for the west coast of NZ. The sun opened up as we arrived in Greymouth and filled up our very (scary) empty gas tank. We explored the Pancake Rock formations on the Tasman Sea--they are truly one of the most unusual, interesting and beautiful wonders of nature. We hiked along a river that took us into a massive limestone gorge with tree ferns and tropical grasses arcing from towering walls. The lush green was occasionally interrupted by the crimson red of December flowering rata trees. The trees are shaped like giant broccoli trees, except that the tops are this brilliant red. A clear olive green river meandered through the gorge. It was a little warm, and with the humidity, it seemed like we were in Hawaii. We then drove up the coast to Westport and landed the last motel room in this hick town. We had one of the best Indian meals that we have ever had--what a surprise! We leave tomorrow--headed back to the west with a few days stay in St Arnaud. We continue to see new and fresh things, and also realize how lucky we are to be in Oregon--its beauty matches anything in the world. Much love, L
Hope you all had a wonderful day. We left this morning in a dense fog and rain across the mountain pass--headed for the west coast of NZ. The sun opened up as we arrived in Greymouth and filled up our very (scary) empty gas tank. We explored the Pancake Rock formations on the Tasman Sea--they are truly one of the most unusual, interesting and beautiful wonders of nature. We hiked along a river that took us into a massive limestone gorge with tree ferns and tropical grasses arcing from towering walls. The lush green was occasionally interrupted by the crimson red of December flowering rata trees. The trees are shaped like giant broccoli trees, except that the tops are this brilliant red. A clear olive green river meandered through the gorge. It was a little warm, and with the humidity, it seemed like we were in Hawaii. We then drove up the coast to Westport and landed the last motel room in this hick town. We had one of the best Indian meals that we have ever had--what a surprise! We leave tomorrow--headed back to the west with a few days stay in St Arnaud. We continue to see new and fresh things, and also realize how lucky we are to be in Oregon--its beauty matches anything in the world. Much love, L
Thursday, December 24, 2009
Merry Christmas!
Merry Christmas everyone,
What I wouldn't give for a plate full of roasted turkey, or crown roast of pork, or baked ham and maybe scalloped potatoes (but I would take mashed) and gravy and stuffing and pie(s) and green beans and on . . .torturing myself. This morning we hiked all around Castle Hill then fished Lake Lyndon all afternoon. Joel caught his first NZ trout--exciting. We are heating up leftover pasta and then heading out to fish Lake Pearson for the evening hatch. Tomorrow we leave for the west coast--one night in Westport then head east to St Arnaud, Nelson Lakes, etc and then back to the east coast and work our way down with the final stay at our favorite, Gore Bay and then home! Sending you all much love, Linny and Joel
What I wouldn't give for a plate full of roasted turkey, or crown roast of pork, or baked ham and maybe scalloped potatoes (but I would take mashed) and gravy and stuffing and pie(s) and green beans and on . . .torturing myself. This morning we hiked all around Castle Hill then fished Lake Lyndon all afternoon. Joel caught his first NZ trout--exciting. We are heating up leftover pasta and then heading out to fish Lake Pearson for the evening hatch. Tomorrow we leave for the west coast--one night in Westport then head east to St Arnaud, Nelson Lakes, etc and then back to the east coast and work our way down with the final stay at our favorite, Gore Bay and then home! Sending you all much love, Linny and Joel
Wednesday, December 23, 2009
Bealy Spur Hike
Happy Christmas Eve to you all!
Addendum to my last post: I was so busy telling you about how difficult the hike was into the Otira Valley that I forgot to tell you all the wonderful things. The valley and mountainsides were covered in Mt Cook Lillies (ranuncula family). They are white, many petaled and with a golden center. The leaves are similar in appearance, texture and size to a lily pad. The mountain daisies were also in bloom: white daisies on long stems that are based in silver green swordlike foliage. The edelweiss was in bloom and the manuka was in bloom--both white. No other flower colors but white! The foliage was rust and green and brown and there was a roaring green blue river at the bottom that cascaded over and over huge boulders. (That is where we had our lunch.) Also . . .
Two Dutch women, aged early 60s, or old enough to no better, were staying at the hostel. Yesterday morning they were heading out to mountain bike without helmets and without maps. Their warm weather clothing consisted of purple wool city blazers. We were a little concerned and asked them about their gear. They, however, were quite confident and insisted they didn't need helmets--afterall, they don't wear them in Holland. When it got to be dark last night, I noticed that they had not returned for the day. I made Joel go up to the lodge and ask if they had returned the bikes. The staff informed us that they had sent out a search party two hours prior. Long story short, they were finally found. They had attempted to ford a fast moving river, with bikes!!!! The water was chest high before the knuckle heads figured out that it was muy dangerous. They attempted to cross another two rivers. They did not have head lanterns or warm clothing. They were exhausted and damn lucky to be alive. Sheesh!!!
Okay, back to us. This morning we left for a very long hike. We hiked for six hours straight--the first three climbing to 400 mtrs (approx. 1200 ft). The first hour was through beautiful beech forest with red flowering mistletoe on the tops fo the trees. Shaded and cushioned by moss and billions of beech leaves. The rest of the hike was through sun exposed manuka dwarf forest and tussock grass. The path was primarily dry streambeds--rocks and small boulders. The going was tiring. The views from there were spectacular--the entire Waimakariri Valley and all the surrounding mountains. But that last stretch caused me to think about why I like hiking. We got to the Bealy Top Hut after three hours and had a quick lunch and headed back down. Yes, through the rock again. Our knees and feet were just screaming. We were ecstatic when we reached the shaded comfort of the beech forest--the last mile was a killer. We drove straight to the next lodge and each had a pint of cold, cold beer. Tomorrow we will hike through Castle Hill and fish in the afternoon/evening. We will probably check out early (the day after Christmas--or Boxing Day as they call it here). We have no idea where we are going. We may head to the West coast and work our way up to the Pancake Rocks and then cut back east through the Lewis Pass. We are winding down here and trying to figure out how we want to end this magical trip. Merry Christmas everyone. Much love, Linny
Addendum to my last post: I was so busy telling you about how difficult the hike was into the Otira Valley that I forgot to tell you all the wonderful things. The valley and mountainsides were covered in Mt Cook Lillies (ranuncula family). They are white, many petaled and with a golden center. The leaves are similar in appearance, texture and size to a lily pad. The mountain daisies were also in bloom: white daisies on long stems that are based in silver green swordlike foliage. The edelweiss was in bloom and the manuka was in bloom--both white. No other flower colors but white! The foliage was rust and green and brown and there was a roaring green blue river at the bottom that cascaded over and over huge boulders. (That is where we had our lunch.) Also . . .
Two Dutch women, aged early 60s, or old enough to no better, were staying at the hostel. Yesterday morning they were heading out to mountain bike without helmets and without maps. Their warm weather clothing consisted of purple wool city blazers. We were a little concerned and asked them about their gear. They, however, were quite confident and insisted they didn't need helmets--afterall, they don't wear them in Holland. When it got to be dark last night, I noticed that they had not returned for the day. I made Joel go up to the lodge and ask if they had returned the bikes. The staff informed us that they had sent out a search party two hours prior. Long story short, they were finally found. They had attempted to ford a fast moving river, with bikes!!!! The water was chest high before the knuckle heads figured out that it was muy dangerous. They attempted to cross another two rivers. They did not have head lanterns or warm clothing. They were exhausted and damn lucky to be alive. Sheesh!!!
Okay, back to us. This morning we left for a very long hike. We hiked for six hours straight--the first three climbing to 400 mtrs (approx. 1200 ft). The first hour was through beautiful beech forest with red flowering mistletoe on the tops fo the trees. Shaded and cushioned by moss and billions of beech leaves. The rest of the hike was through sun exposed manuka dwarf forest and tussock grass. The path was primarily dry streambeds--rocks and small boulders. The going was tiring. The views from there were spectacular--the entire Waimakariri Valley and all the surrounding mountains. But that last stretch caused me to think about why I like hiking. We got to the Bealy Top Hut after three hours and had a quick lunch and headed back down. Yes, through the rock again. Our knees and feet were just screaming. We were ecstatic when we reached the shaded comfort of the beech forest--the last mile was a killer. We drove straight to the next lodge and each had a pint of cold, cold beer. Tomorrow we will hike through Castle Hill and fish in the afternoon/evening. We will probably check out early (the day after Christmas--or Boxing Day as they call it here). We have no idea where we are going. We may head to the West coast and work our way up to the Pancake Rocks and then cut back east through the Lewis Pass. We are winding down here and trying to figure out how we want to end this magical trip. Merry Christmas everyone. Much love, Linny
Tuesday, December 22, 2009
Arthur's Pass
Hi!!!!
We left this morning for Arthur's Pass and beyond. The drive takes you through the mountains and along the river system. The terrain is expansive here--wide open spaces in a subalpine and alpine region. The mountains opened up to a huge valley--a long, wide, living, dynamic canvas of nature. There were miles of indigo lupine against chartreuse new grass, outlined by white grey gravel bars and reaches and threaded through with blue gray clear glacial streams forming the immense braided system of the Waimakariri River and the many streams and rivers that feed into it. I cannot describe it beyond that except to say: Awesome! We then hiked straight up (that is STRAIGHT UP) to Devil's Punchbowl waterfall which is one of the most powerful falls that I have ever seen. We then followed that with a hike into the Otira Valley toward Mt Rolleston. The path is all loose rock and boulders steadily climbing up and over a number of mountain streams, waterfalls and rock fields caused by avalanches and earthquakes. It was short in distance, but extremely tiring because of the terrain and the amount of focus needed to stay on the path without falling into a crevasse or spraining your ankle. We were a bit tired after that and so headed into the village for a flat white (yummmmmmmm) and then onto another drive and teeny weeny hike before coming back to create a tasty little dinner. Risotto with tons of veges, salad and a bottle of Marlborough region Sav Blanc. I have a nice little buzz and am watching the sun go down and the horses running in the fields. Tomorrow we do a day long hike. Oh, and I forgot. We are staying in a station that is at the base of the Torlesse Range. I have never seen formations like this--the peaks look like giant caramel fudge sundaes. The rocks are a caramel, dark brown, tan and grey color--all swirled together. You'll have to see the photos--they really are incredibly unusual. Love to you all, Linny
We left this morning for Arthur's Pass and beyond. The drive takes you through the mountains and along the river system. The terrain is expansive here--wide open spaces in a subalpine and alpine region. The mountains opened up to a huge valley--a long, wide, living, dynamic canvas of nature. There were miles of indigo lupine against chartreuse new grass, outlined by white grey gravel bars and reaches and threaded through with blue gray clear glacial streams forming the immense braided system of the Waimakariri River and the many streams and rivers that feed into it. I cannot describe it beyond that except to say: Awesome! We then hiked straight up (that is STRAIGHT UP) to Devil's Punchbowl waterfall which is one of the most powerful falls that I have ever seen. We then followed that with a hike into the Otira Valley toward Mt Rolleston. The path is all loose rock and boulders steadily climbing up and over a number of mountain streams, waterfalls and rock fields caused by avalanches and earthquakes. It was short in distance, but extremely tiring because of the terrain and the amount of focus needed to stay on the path without falling into a crevasse or spraining your ankle. We were a bit tired after that and so headed into the village for a flat white (yummmmmmmm) and then onto another drive and teeny weeny hike before coming back to create a tasty little dinner. Risotto with tons of veges, salad and a bottle of Marlborough region Sav Blanc. I have a nice little buzz and am watching the sun go down and the horses running in the fields. Tomorrow we do a day long hike. Oh, and I forgot. We are staying in a station that is at the base of the Torlesse Range. I have never seen formations like this--the peaks look like giant caramel fudge sundaes. The rocks are a caramel, dark brown, tan and grey color--all swirled together. You'll have to see the photos--they really are incredibly unusual. Love to you all, Linny
Detour
Merry, merry all,
Well, so after a fantastic seafood lunch we hiked the highlands above the sea where the winds were about 60mph. Though it was a sunny, clear day the winds were tiring and so we made our way down to the shore and walked along incredible rock formations and viewed thousands of gulls and their newly hatched babies, lots of seals, and albatross. We then had a superior Thai seafood dinner with real beer this time! We were on the hunt for some Magnum Ice Cream Bars when I backed into a flower planter. I just tapped, and I do mean tapped, the sucker and it took the entire rear bumper of that cheap red car. I was in a little of a panic--Joel was calm and cool. We put it back together with duct tape, but had to drive it back to the Christchurch airport to exchange cars. That little mistake cost us one more beautiful day in Kaikoura and a few hundred dollars for that piece of plastic they call a bumper. So, that done we drove clear across the Canterbury Plains and into Arthur's Pass. We are staying the week on a sheep station (Flock Hill) and it is incredibly beautiful. We hiked down to Lake Pearson to check out the late afternoon hatch and access. Tomorrow we hike all day in Castle Hill area and Craigieburn. We cannot believe that more than five weeks has passed and soon we will be home. It is finally summer here and I am not looking forward to the rain. We miss everyone and will be thinking of you all more than ever in this week. Love, Linny
Well, so after a fantastic seafood lunch we hiked the highlands above the sea where the winds were about 60mph. Though it was a sunny, clear day the winds were tiring and so we made our way down to the shore and walked along incredible rock formations and viewed thousands of gulls and their newly hatched babies, lots of seals, and albatross. We then had a superior Thai seafood dinner with real beer this time! We were on the hunt for some Magnum Ice Cream Bars when I backed into a flower planter. I just tapped, and I do mean tapped, the sucker and it took the entire rear bumper of that cheap red car. I was in a little of a panic--Joel was calm and cool. We put it back together with duct tape, but had to drive it back to the Christchurch airport to exchange cars. That little mistake cost us one more beautiful day in Kaikoura and a few hundred dollars for that piece of plastic they call a bumper. So, that done we drove clear across the Canterbury Plains and into Arthur's Pass. We are staying the week on a sheep station (Flock Hill) and it is incredibly beautiful. We hiked down to Lake Pearson to check out the late afternoon hatch and access. Tomorrow we hike all day in Castle Hill area and Craigieburn. We cannot believe that more than five weeks has passed and soon we will be home. It is finally summer here and I am not looking forward to the rain. We miss everyone and will be thinking of you all more than ever in this week. Love, Linny
Sunday, December 20, 2009
Gore Bay
Hello, happy holidays to everyone!
We left Methven under cloudy, drizzly skies and into sunny, warm weather. Gore Bay was a wonderful respite. The afternoon we got there, we walked along the beautiful beach and took in the warmth of the sun. The following morning we woke to the sun beaming off the ocean. The ocean was an emerald green with a thin navy blue line forming a ruler straight horizon. It was cloudless, but for a few lavender and pink clouds that hung close to the horizon. We watched a seal ride the waves for quite some time, walked the beach and lay in the sun. It would have been a perfect morning if I hadn't stepped on a wasp, which nearly sent me to the moon. Fortunately, I had some Apis with me and took that and the swelling and pain went down within an hour. We took in our first really fantastic meal in a cafe/art gallery and then when it got dark, watched the night sky in its "new" formations--upside down Orion, Southern Cross--all those things that we do not see above the equator. By afternoon, a strong storm came in from the South and brought rain. We had two lovely days in the sun and this morning left for Kaikoura further up the coast, which is another fantastic bay town with a jutting peninsula. The whale watching trips are all cancelled due to rough sees even though it is a warm and lovely day here in the village. Our plan is to stay here through tomorrow night and on Wednesday head back into the interior to hike. The troops need the sun and sea breezes--I am finally eating and I might say--enjoying it! We wish you all a Merry Christmas and hope that you are all surrounded by much love now and always, Linny
We left Methven under cloudy, drizzly skies and into sunny, warm weather. Gore Bay was a wonderful respite. The afternoon we got there, we walked along the beautiful beach and took in the warmth of the sun. The following morning we woke to the sun beaming off the ocean. The ocean was an emerald green with a thin navy blue line forming a ruler straight horizon. It was cloudless, but for a few lavender and pink clouds that hung close to the horizon. We watched a seal ride the waves for quite some time, walked the beach and lay in the sun. It would have been a perfect morning if I hadn't stepped on a wasp, which nearly sent me to the moon. Fortunately, I had some Apis with me and took that and the swelling and pain went down within an hour. We took in our first really fantastic meal in a cafe/art gallery and then when it got dark, watched the night sky in its "new" formations--upside down Orion, Southern Cross--all those things that we do not see above the equator. By afternoon, a strong storm came in from the South and brought rain. We had two lovely days in the sun and this morning left for Kaikoura further up the coast, which is another fantastic bay town with a jutting peninsula. The whale watching trips are all cancelled due to rough sees even though it is a warm and lovely day here in the village. Our plan is to stay here through tomorrow night and on Wednesday head back into the interior to hike. The troops need the sun and sea breezes--I am finally eating and I might say--enjoying it! We wish you all a Merry Christmas and hope that you are all surrounded by much love now and always, Linny
Thursday, December 17, 2009
Forgot to Mention
I forgot to mention yesterday that as I was walking back to the car yesterday in the Mt Sunday area, I heard a tremendous hum and looked up and in front of me to see a swarm of wasps so dense that it looked like a large moving shadow--there were hundreds of them. It was terrifying. The mountain beech have a black moss that grows all over the trunks and the wasps seek out the sap underneath the moss. They then bring it back to their nests. Evidently it is one of the dangers in the area and the DOC cautions anyone traveling in the area to be aware of the nests and the swarms. I froze in my steps and wondered just how fast I could run to the car before being attacked. Thank God they moved on to the brush area to the north.
Also, I haven't kept you up on new vocabulary: scroggin (trail mix)
The wind is blowing hard and a northwesterly storm is coming in. Tomorrow we are heading to the east coast for a couple of days (Gore Bay) to just chill. I have still not recovered from the stomach flu--it tore me up something bad! We need a couple of days of sea air and nothing to do. xo Linny
Also, I haven't kept you up on new vocabulary: scroggin (trail mix)
The wind is blowing hard and a northwesterly storm is coming in. Tomorrow we are heading to the east coast for a couple of days (Gore Bay) to just chill. I have still not recovered from the stomach flu--it tore me up something bad! We need a couple of days of sea air and nothing to do. xo Linny
Wednesday, December 16, 2009
Mt Sunday and Sharplin Falls
Hi all,
This morning we drove on many gravel roads to get to the base of Mt Sunday (part of the Harper Range)--we were well rewarded. As we approached the final rise in the road it opened up to a spectacular view of a glacial range with water flowing to the valley floor--the scale of it is indescribable. We made our way to the valley and began to hike toward a rock formation. There were a number of streams to ford to get there and Joel was willing to do it, and I was not (didn't want to take my boots off and on). So I spent my time walking along the creeks and streams. This water is the first glacial water to come down from the range and forms an intricate braided system of crystal clear creeks and streams that eventually form the Ashburton River and also drains into the Rangitata River. After that we drove to the base of Mt Somers in the Black Hill Range to take a hike to Sharplin Falls. The path begins in farmland and quickly enters into a mountain beech forest lush with ferns, moss, lichen, and a thousand species of green "everything". The first foot bridge is over a deep clear and pure pool of water that is part of a rushing stream that originates at the falls. The water tumbles over and between boulders the size of a VW bug and then forms a pool with each descent and continues on pool after pool. The path climbs steeply 1000 ft and then descends back down and then you get to do it in reverse. The granite walls rise straight up from the water and are the color of wine. It was very warm and a little humid and so lush it was very much like Hawaii. As in so many places in NZ, the water is so pure, so clean, so clear that you really want to drink it, swim in it . . .and tomorrow another hike. xo
This morning we drove on many gravel roads to get to the base of Mt Sunday (part of the Harper Range)--we were well rewarded. As we approached the final rise in the road it opened up to a spectacular view of a glacial range with water flowing to the valley floor--the scale of it is indescribable. We made our way to the valley and began to hike toward a rock formation. There were a number of streams to ford to get there and Joel was willing to do it, and I was not (didn't want to take my boots off and on). So I spent my time walking along the creeks and streams. This water is the first glacial water to come down from the range and forms an intricate braided system of crystal clear creeks and streams that eventually form the Ashburton River and also drains into the Rangitata River. After that we drove to the base of Mt Somers in the Black Hill Range to take a hike to Sharplin Falls. The path begins in farmland and quickly enters into a mountain beech forest lush with ferns, moss, lichen, and a thousand species of green "everything". The first foot bridge is over a deep clear and pure pool of water that is part of a rushing stream that originates at the falls. The water tumbles over and between boulders the size of a VW bug and then forms a pool with each descent and continues on pool after pool. The path climbs steeply 1000 ft and then descends back down and then you get to do it in reverse. The granite walls rise straight up from the water and are the color of wine. It was very warm and a little humid and so lush it was very much like Hawaii. As in so many places in NZ, the water is so pure, so clean, so clear that you really want to drink it, swim in it . . .and tomorrow another hike. xo
Tuesday, December 15, 2009
Another change of plans
Hello everybody!
Yesterday we headed out of Lake Tekapo to explore the area (after our snowy morning). We took the route that runs adjacent to the salmon canals and stopped at the salmon farms where people were sitting on the banks (within a foot of the highway) throwing their metal lures in and bringing in good sized (around 7#) salmon. Many of them are fishing for the first time and flinging their lines in and having a grand time. We continued on to Lake Pukaki and on such a sunny fine day we were rewarded with a perfect view of Mt Cook. The surrounding views are spectacular! Forward on to Twizel where we contemplated staying in order to fish the area. However, it is a small service town that is . ..well, nothing really nice to say about that. We followed the canals to Lake Ohau and pulled out our rods very late in the day. Nothing going on. (We did view the "Plains of Rohan"--for all you Lord of the Ring fans.) A very friendly young Kiwi man and his 8 yr old son drove up and engaged us as we were ready to cast. They were delightful and had lots of great information, however, the young lad through his lure in and blam--he came up with a brown trout. (I think that should have been mine.) Several casts later and I think the fish were sufficiently spooked and they moved further up the canals (where Joel was casting) and blam--the kid caught another one (that was Joel's!). We ended up chatting and really not finishing and so returned back to Tekapo. On the way back, the rabbits starting coming out of the bush by the dozens and I really didn't want to hit one. The locals driving behind me just jammed past me and consider it a service to the country to kill the pests. It became clear that I was still not doing well and so we decided to change our plans again and pass on hiking near Mt Cook. During the night, I finally broke the fever. We left on another stellar morning for the town of Methven, west of Christchurch, near the Mt Hutt/Mt Sunday/Mt Somers/Rakaia Gorge area. We arrived this afternoon and immediately left to view the Rakaia Gorge which is one of the most beautiful places I have ever seen. The wide and fast flowing river bends through a deep gorge which is accessible by foot. Glacial waters flow in causing the water to take on a chalky green gray color. We hope to return and explore it by way of a hike that follows the river above the cliffs. Everything depends on weather and health conditions. Joel is contemplating skydiving! Yikes! xo L
Yesterday we headed out of Lake Tekapo to explore the area (after our snowy morning). We took the route that runs adjacent to the salmon canals and stopped at the salmon farms where people were sitting on the banks (within a foot of the highway) throwing their metal lures in and bringing in good sized (around 7#) salmon. Many of them are fishing for the first time and flinging their lines in and having a grand time. We continued on to Lake Pukaki and on such a sunny fine day we were rewarded with a perfect view of Mt Cook. The surrounding views are spectacular! Forward on to Twizel where we contemplated staying in order to fish the area. However, it is a small service town that is . ..well, nothing really nice to say about that. We followed the canals to Lake Ohau and pulled out our rods very late in the day. Nothing going on. (We did view the "Plains of Rohan"--for all you Lord of the Ring fans.) A very friendly young Kiwi man and his 8 yr old son drove up and engaged us as we were ready to cast. They were delightful and had lots of great information, however, the young lad through his lure in and blam--he came up with a brown trout. (I think that should have been mine.) Several casts later and I think the fish were sufficiently spooked and they moved further up the canals (where Joel was casting) and blam--the kid caught another one (that was Joel's!). We ended up chatting and really not finishing and so returned back to Tekapo. On the way back, the rabbits starting coming out of the bush by the dozens and I really didn't want to hit one. The locals driving behind me just jammed past me and consider it a service to the country to kill the pests. It became clear that I was still not doing well and so we decided to change our plans again and pass on hiking near Mt Cook. During the night, I finally broke the fever. We left on another stellar morning for the town of Methven, west of Christchurch, near the Mt Hutt/Mt Sunday/Mt Somers/Rakaia Gorge area. We arrived this afternoon and immediately left to view the Rakaia Gorge which is one of the most beautiful places I have ever seen. The wide and fast flowing river bends through a deep gorge which is accessible by foot. Glacial waters flow in causing the water to take on a chalky green gray color. We hope to return and explore it by way of a hike that follows the river above the cliffs. Everything depends on weather and health conditions. Joel is contemplating skydiving! Yikes! xo L
Monday, December 14, 2009
Second Day Lake Tekapo
Last night I passed on a beautiful piece of freshly caught salmon and I knew I must still be ill. After dinner, we walked back up the hill and viewed the sunset over the mountains and lake and it was stunning. The area is a lot like Bend--high alpine lakes and mountains and the terrain is brown with spots of green and stands of pines that are incredibly fragrant. We are between 2700 and 3000 ft up and very little grows up here--gardening is quite a challenge for the locals. (I certainly understand this!) A few drops of rain began to fall and by the time we got back to the cottage it was raining. We slept well to the sounds of the rain falling and woke to the sun streaming in. We opened the curtains to see snow all around the surrounding hills and mountains that had only hours before been quite dry. We placed a chair on the grassy hill and I trimmed Joel's hair with a pair of manicure scissors. I am still a little queezy and so we are going to scout out some fishing places on the canals south of here and check on accommodations closer to Mt Cook. I feel a little like trekkies waiting to climb Mt Everest. We watch the weather conditions and talk with the locals frequently to find a window in which we can drive the road up to the mountain village.
(I am quite irritated by a very loud German speaking woman who is skyping and using wild hand signals as well . ..)
Things I have observed about Kiwis and NZ--this is pure stream of consciousness here: they are the original recyclers. They conserve everything and find use for all items. It is not uncommon to see old crockery, wire mesh, old gates, machinery, driftwood and anything else you can think of in the garden living new lives. The gray water from the kitchen and bathroom sinks flow directly from the pipes to the outdoors in open lines that lead to irrigation systems for the yards. They are quite loquacious. Their need to help knows no bounds. (Recently when we had a small question in the grocery, every single employee in the store descended upon us one by one and each with a different suggestion. No matter how much we begged off and tried to politely dismiss them, they wanted desperately to find an answer to our problem.) The Kiwis always wave to you when they pass you in a car, whether you are walking or in another car . ..if they don't, then they are generally transplants from the UK or the US. They have long ago worked out an incredible system of cooperation that is admirable. Neighbors allow each other to drive through paddocks and cross property with vehicles. They watch one another's property. They greet each other and talk about their activities. They are wonderfully optimistic and amazingly strong and resourceful. They are polite and require that their children learn the same. I think the world would be a better place if we just let them run the world. They love to individualize their postboxes and I wish that I'd started photographing them from the start of the trip. Antlers on mailboxes, old microwaves, old breadboxes, every color imaginable, on top of tree stumps, on top of old pipes, in the middle of bushes, in pots--it is hilarious and such an expression of creativity and individuality.
I have to go now, the girl next door in the stall is reciting some silly school cheer in German and it is driving me freaking nuts. Will report more later . Much Love, Linny
(I am quite irritated by a very loud German speaking woman who is skyping and using wild hand signals as well . ..)
Things I have observed about Kiwis and NZ--this is pure stream of consciousness here: they are the original recyclers. They conserve everything and find use for all items. It is not uncommon to see old crockery, wire mesh, old gates, machinery, driftwood and anything else you can think of in the garden living new lives. The gray water from the kitchen and bathroom sinks flow directly from the pipes to the outdoors in open lines that lead to irrigation systems for the yards. They are quite loquacious. Their need to help knows no bounds. (Recently when we had a small question in the grocery, every single employee in the store descended upon us one by one and each with a different suggestion. No matter how much we begged off and tried to politely dismiss them, they wanted desperately to find an answer to our problem.) The Kiwis always wave to you when they pass you in a car, whether you are walking or in another car . ..if they don't, then they are generally transplants from the UK or the US. They have long ago worked out an incredible system of cooperation that is admirable. Neighbors allow each other to drive through paddocks and cross property with vehicles. They watch one another's property. They greet each other and talk about their activities. They are wonderfully optimistic and amazingly strong and resourceful. They are polite and require that their children learn the same. I think the world would be a better place if we just let them run the world. They love to individualize their postboxes and I wish that I'd started photographing them from the start of the trip. Antlers on mailboxes, old microwaves, old breadboxes, every color imaginable, on top of tree stumps, on top of old pipes, in the middle of bushes, in pots--it is hilarious and such an expression of creativity and individuality.
I have to go now, the girl next door in the stall is reciting some silly school cheer in German and it is driving me freaking nuts. Will report more later . Much Love, Linny
Sunday, December 13, 2009
Low Point
Hi all,
We left Oamaru for Geraldine on a bright sunny day with huge puffy white clouds in an azure sky. Once we arrived we immediately drove out to the Peel Forest for a couple of walks. The forest contains some of the most ancient totara trees (1000 years old)--that are like redwoods. We saw some that measured 15 ft in diameter. One of the hikes we took was through an area not frequented given the condition of the path. We needed a machete in parts. The day was perfect in every way, but I began to feel dizzy with each step. By evening I was vomiting and it was clear from my symptoms that I had the stomach flu. I spent the next 36 hrs in bed and got up this morning quite weak and foggy headed--not having eaten. We had to hit the road and fortunately Lake Tekapo was only one hour's drive to the West under fantastic dramatic skies and views of verdant rolling hills with hawks soaring. Once again we found hostel accommodations inadequate and we promptly dropped beach towels on the shore and napped. We got up to look for another place to stay and as is so often the case here, a friendly Kiwi made a call to another friendly Kiwi and voila we are in a little cottage behind Erin's house. Our plan is to one, recuperate, two, make our way to Mt Cook now that the weather had cleared out, and three, fish the area. Lake Tekapo is an unreal turquoise color below a backdrop of snow covered peaks. We took a drive to the top of Mt John (site of the observatory) to view the panorama of the Southern Alps--it was gusting a quite cold and we needed our down jackets and knitted caps. Once you dropped down from there, it was quite sunny and pleasant. We look forward to seeing the much advertised night sky. The skies are extremely dark here--lighting is prohibited. The fact that this small area is protected by two mountain ranges affords conditions that do not exist in other parts of NZ. It is why the University had established its research here and there are a number of small observatories on the hills. We are a little road weary (teeny weeny) and hoping to get a powerful second wind. Wish us luck and take care of one another, Linny and Joel
We left Oamaru for Geraldine on a bright sunny day with huge puffy white clouds in an azure sky. Once we arrived we immediately drove out to the Peel Forest for a couple of walks. The forest contains some of the most ancient totara trees (1000 years old)--that are like redwoods. We saw some that measured 15 ft in diameter. One of the hikes we took was through an area not frequented given the condition of the path. We needed a machete in parts. The day was perfect in every way, but I began to feel dizzy with each step. By evening I was vomiting and it was clear from my symptoms that I had the stomach flu. I spent the next 36 hrs in bed and got up this morning quite weak and foggy headed--not having eaten. We had to hit the road and fortunately Lake Tekapo was only one hour's drive to the West under fantastic dramatic skies and views of verdant rolling hills with hawks soaring. Once again we found hostel accommodations inadequate and we promptly dropped beach towels on the shore and napped. We got up to look for another place to stay and as is so often the case here, a friendly Kiwi made a call to another friendly Kiwi and voila we are in a little cottage behind Erin's house. Our plan is to one, recuperate, two, make our way to Mt Cook now that the weather had cleared out, and three, fish the area. Lake Tekapo is an unreal turquoise color below a backdrop of snow covered peaks. We took a drive to the top of Mt John (site of the observatory) to view the panorama of the Southern Alps--it was gusting a quite cold and we needed our down jackets and knitted caps. Once you dropped down from there, it was quite sunny and pleasant. We look forward to seeing the much advertised night sky. The skies are extremely dark here--lighting is prohibited. The fact that this small area is protected by two mountain ranges affords conditions that do not exist in other parts of NZ. It is why the University had established its research here and there are a number of small observatories on the hills. We are a little road weary (teeny weeny) and hoping to get a powerful second wind. Wish us luck and take care of one another, Linny and Joel
Friday, December 11, 2009
Goodbye to the Penguins
Hello all,
Today was a sloooow day. I had tweaked an old ankle injury and couldn't walk today. So, we wrapped it with Kinesio (magic) tape and I took a couple of homeopathic remedies and then I did the laundry. I limped around the grocery store with my walking stick and came back to catch up on internet stuff. Later, we hopped in the car and happened to find the Catholic Basilica and the last mass of the year, so we went in and sang for a while. When we left we went to the poorly maintained Oamaru City Gardens and dreamed our way through: we'd plant a stone garden here, trim the trees here, repair the stonework there, clean the lily pond--maybe they'd hire us to transform the place . . ..
We had dinner and then stood in the street outside the hostel yelling for Alex to come down and join us as we went out to be with the penguins again. The light was fading and we saw the first raft come in and slide belly first up the beach and then onto their feet. They waddled out to their nests and we waited for the next group that came up the rocky cliffs and we were lucky enough o hang out with a group of about 25 of them--one to two feet away. I am not a fan of the word "cute"; but in this case there is no other more fitting word. They are the sweetest little things and their calls are amazing. If you want to know what they sound like, google little blue penguins or fairy penguins sound clips. In total this evening, we probably saw 50 penguins. We said goodbye to them and dropped Alex off at the hostel and said goodbye to her too. We may try to rendezvous in Lake Tekapo for Christmas if we loop back down and try to see Mt Cook before leaving NZ. As we were driving out of the car park, we saw a lone penguin making his way down the street along the curb. He then hopped on the curb and accessed a cement ramp, tucked under a chainlinked fence and into a car repair parking lot to find his nest that could well be in an old tire. It is such a sight! Again, we feel so fortunate to be a witness of this strange migration. We got back to our place and my ankle is just about normal--thank you Ktape and Ruta Grav and Arnica! Tomorrow we leave for Geraldine and the Peel Forest and I am really hoping that I will be able to do the number of hikes that we have planned. Two days there and then onto a longer stay at the Flock Hill Station in Cantebury which will afford us access to Arthur's Pass, Castle Rocks, a number of alpine lakes and rivers, and various hikes. After that we are on the run without a plan--it will be weather dependent. Take care everyone. xo Linny
Today was a sloooow day. I had tweaked an old ankle injury and couldn't walk today. So, we wrapped it with Kinesio (magic) tape and I took a couple of homeopathic remedies and then I did the laundry. I limped around the grocery store with my walking stick and came back to catch up on internet stuff. Later, we hopped in the car and happened to find the Catholic Basilica and the last mass of the year, so we went in and sang for a while. When we left we went to the poorly maintained Oamaru City Gardens and dreamed our way through: we'd plant a stone garden here, trim the trees here, repair the stonework there, clean the lily pond--maybe they'd hire us to transform the place . . ..
We had dinner and then stood in the street outside the hostel yelling for Alex to come down and join us as we went out to be with the penguins again. The light was fading and we saw the first raft come in and slide belly first up the beach and then onto their feet. They waddled out to their nests and we waited for the next group that came up the rocky cliffs and we were lucky enough o hang out with a group of about 25 of them--one to two feet away. I am not a fan of the word "cute"; but in this case there is no other more fitting word. They are the sweetest little things and their calls are amazing. If you want to know what they sound like, google little blue penguins or fairy penguins sound clips. In total this evening, we probably saw 50 penguins. We said goodbye to them and dropped Alex off at the hostel and said goodbye to her too. We may try to rendezvous in Lake Tekapo for Christmas if we loop back down and try to see Mt Cook before leaving NZ. As we were driving out of the car park, we saw a lone penguin making his way down the street along the curb. He then hopped on the curb and accessed a cement ramp, tucked under a chainlinked fence and into a car repair parking lot to find his nest that could well be in an old tire. It is such a sight! Again, we feel so fortunate to be a witness of this strange migration. We got back to our place and my ankle is just about normal--thank you Ktape and Ruta Grav and Arnica! Tomorrow we leave for Geraldine and the Peel Forest and I am really hoping that I will be able to do the number of hikes that we have planned. Two days there and then onto a longer stay at the Flock Hill Station in Cantebury which will afford us access to Arthur's Pass, Castle Rocks, a number of alpine lakes and rivers, and various hikes. After that we are on the run without a plan--it will be weather dependent. Take care everyone. xo Linny
Thursday, December 10, 2009
Chasing down fish
Hi again
Those of you who fly fish know that 10% of the time is fishing, the other 90% is checking out maps, driving or hiking down various roads/paths to river banks, prepping gear, building leaders, looking for fish, tying and untying knots and swearing. We were told by the local guy that we didn't need waders, and we didn't need 4 WD--well, that was a lot of bunk. There were many attempts to reach the river (this is after driving gravel farm roads, opening and closing gates, driving a ways and then finding out that you either have to have 4WD, or you abandon the car and hike in through marsh) and a number of dead end roads. However, the most challenging, frustrating and entertaining experience is encountering the cattle crossing. This happened, not once, but twice. After driving a considerable distance on gravel road we saw a huge line of dairy cows in our path. The cows are moved from one field and holding area to another field and the milking area. Dairy production is probably the number one industry in NZ and so there are many, many cows! You sit in your car, watching one humongous cow with engorged utters after another, hoping for some kind of green signal light that will make them give you the right of way. This does not happen. It's like a railway stop--watching 200 train cars go by. Anyway, we finally did make it to one of the river outlets. Many of the roads near the ocean are made of round, smoothed river stones that measure from the size of an egg to a hot water bag. No two ways about it--you have to walk over them and it is slow going because if you're going downhill you tend to slide. I fished a stretch without results and then headed further down toward the mouth. The offshore winds are strong and the current is moving up the river because of the ocean. The water is a clear blue green with a distinct seam into tawny colored shallow water with muddy bottoms. It is nearly impossible to see fish until they come into that shallow water--and only when they are very near. After a frustrating couple of hours we decided to look for easier water and climbed back up to the cliff top and that is where I spotted two huge grown trout. Joel agreed to spot (he only did this because it was my birthday!) and I scrambled back down the cliffside. He was calling out constantly--"2 o'clock and 20 ft out", "right in front of you and 10 ft out", "no, he turned to the left--no, he turned to the right". I have a 6 wt rod and 1x leader with a #4 hook. My shoulder took such a beating because it is impossible to cast in that kind of wind with my little twig. I was wishing I had a 10 wt! I quit! We drove around and around and finally parked and climbed down the side of the Waitaki bridge onto gravel and rock shores and I worked that stretch for a very long time. I stomped through mud and sludge and smacked willow branches and forded the shallows. When I wrapped up for the day and we were walking back, I spied three rainbow trout in a slow moving stream several yards back from the main river. This entailed changing leader and tippet and fly and rethreading my rod and damn I'm a fishing addict! We had a dinner date with someone and so at 7PM, we called it! Thank God! Put an end to my misery.
We met up with Alex and celebrated my birthday at the Star and Garter. We had a feast of Waitaki Salmon, Blue Cod and Lamb Shanks, accompanied by salad, veges, garlic bread and three kinds (!!!!) of potatoes: new boiled, french fried and mashed and let us not forget the wonder NZ Sauv. Blanc, topped off by a warm deep chocolate cake with a framboise glace and smattering of cream. Yikes! Incredible meal and conversation as we all went over the activities of the day. We will part ways tomorrow and that will be a wee bit sad. While walking to the car, Joel and I heard the penguins calling and so decided to walk down behind the old warehouses, railroad tracks and dry tall grasses to catch a glimpse of the penguins walking back in from the ocean in the dark. There were so many it was down right ridiculous. We feel so lucky to have experienced this. We saw two penguins mating (they do this while they are running!), many penguins crossing the road and making their way to nests that are in log piles, the bush, the warehouses, the parking lots--we almost stepped on one as we crossed the railway tracks and then once we got in the car, we almost ran them over. It is surreal.
Tomorrow we go back to that masochistic thing called fishing. We will head for Geraldine and the Peel Forest in a couple of days and then on to Arthur's Pass and the Canterbury area. Weather permitting we will then head back down to catch the loop we missed: Lake Tekapo, Lake Pukaki, Mt Cook, Lake Ohau and anywhere else the wind blows us. I am now exhausted and it is after midnight, but I have to wash the river off of me. So, goodnight all. Much love, L
Those of you who fly fish know that 10% of the time is fishing, the other 90% is checking out maps, driving or hiking down various roads/paths to river banks, prepping gear, building leaders, looking for fish, tying and untying knots and swearing. We were told by the local guy that we didn't need waders, and we didn't need 4 WD--well, that was a lot of bunk. There were many attempts to reach the river (this is after driving gravel farm roads, opening and closing gates, driving a ways and then finding out that you either have to have 4WD, or you abandon the car and hike in through marsh) and a number of dead end roads. However, the most challenging, frustrating and entertaining experience is encountering the cattle crossing. This happened, not once, but twice. After driving a considerable distance on gravel road we saw a huge line of dairy cows in our path. The cows are moved from one field and holding area to another field and the milking area. Dairy production is probably the number one industry in NZ and so there are many, many cows! You sit in your car, watching one humongous cow with engorged utters after another, hoping for some kind of green signal light that will make them give you the right of way. This does not happen. It's like a railway stop--watching 200 train cars go by. Anyway, we finally did make it to one of the river outlets. Many of the roads near the ocean are made of round, smoothed river stones that measure from the size of an egg to a hot water bag. No two ways about it--you have to walk over them and it is slow going because if you're going downhill you tend to slide. I fished a stretch without results and then headed further down toward the mouth. The offshore winds are strong and the current is moving up the river because of the ocean. The water is a clear blue green with a distinct seam into tawny colored shallow water with muddy bottoms. It is nearly impossible to see fish until they come into that shallow water--and only when they are very near. After a frustrating couple of hours we decided to look for easier water and climbed back up to the cliff top and that is where I spotted two huge grown trout. Joel agreed to spot (he only did this because it was my birthday!) and I scrambled back down the cliffside. He was calling out constantly--"2 o'clock and 20 ft out", "right in front of you and 10 ft out", "no, he turned to the left--no, he turned to the right". I have a 6 wt rod and 1x leader with a #4 hook. My shoulder took such a beating because it is impossible to cast in that kind of wind with my little twig. I was wishing I had a 10 wt! I quit! We drove around and around and finally parked and climbed down the side of the Waitaki bridge onto gravel and rock shores and I worked that stretch for a very long time. I stomped through mud and sludge and smacked willow branches and forded the shallows. When I wrapped up for the day and we were walking back, I spied three rainbow trout in a slow moving stream several yards back from the main river. This entailed changing leader and tippet and fly and rethreading my rod and damn I'm a fishing addict! We had a dinner date with someone and so at 7PM, we called it! Thank God! Put an end to my misery.
We met up with Alex and celebrated my birthday at the Star and Garter. We had a feast of Waitaki Salmon, Blue Cod and Lamb Shanks, accompanied by salad, veges, garlic bread and three kinds (!!!!) of potatoes: new boiled, french fried and mashed and let us not forget the wonder NZ Sauv. Blanc, topped off by a warm deep chocolate cake with a framboise glace and smattering of cream. Yikes! Incredible meal and conversation as we all went over the activities of the day. We will part ways tomorrow and that will be a wee bit sad. While walking to the car, Joel and I heard the penguins calling and so decided to walk down behind the old warehouses, railroad tracks and dry tall grasses to catch a glimpse of the penguins walking back in from the ocean in the dark. There were so many it was down right ridiculous. We feel so lucky to have experienced this. We saw two penguins mating (they do this while they are running!), many penguins crossing the road and making their way to nests that are in log piles, the bush, the warehouses, the parking lots--we almost stepped on one as we crossed the railway tracks and then once we got in the car, we almost ran them over. It is surreal.
Tomorrow we go back to that masochistic thing called fishing. We will head for Geraldine and the Peel Forest in a couple of days and then on to Arthur's Pass and the Canterbury area. Weather permitting we will then head back down to catch the loop we missed: Lake Tekapo, Lake Pukaki, Mt Cook, Lake Ohau and anywhere else the wind blows us. I am now exhausted and it is after midnight, but I have to wash the river off of me. So, goodnight all. Much love, L
The Weather moves us East
Well, howdy, everyone!
Mt Cook did not happen--boohoo. The morning that we were to leave for Mt Cook the a huge storm rolled in accompanied by torrential rains. We took our time with breakfast and packing, hoping that the weather would turn. We checked various reports and webcams and decided (unhappily) that it was not safe to travel the road up the mountain and if we did so, we would not be able to hike the trails or see the incredible views. It was a hard decision because we were also forfeiting two nights stay at the Lodge. Alex was suddenly without plans, as well, since she had planned on hitching a ride with us. So the three of us poured over maps and it was clear that in order to escape the storm, we would have to head back to the East coast. The Kiwis call a storm like this a "blowover"--and they advised us not to fight it. It will hang on for days and if you arrange a trip around hiking and fishing activities--well, you know the answer to that. We had planned on fishing Lake Ohau and the salmon canals outside of Lake Tekapo, but that was not to be. So, we packed the car and drove out of Wanaka with some sadness because it is such a special place.
We drove back through Tarras and then north through Omarama along the Waikati River and dam systems. The Waikati flow is fed by Lake Wanaka, Lake Tekapo and Lake Ohau. It is dammed in several places and provides most of the energy for NZ. We cleared the mountains and lupine filled valleys and made our way down. The skies turned blue and the sun came out and we were happy as clams. We stopped along the tops of the dams and admired the incredible ingenuity involved in the design and construction of these massive structures. We drove back and forth across the river through a system of one way bridges eyeing fishing areas and finally stopped to have our lunch on the shore while watching terns and oyster catchers dive into the river. The clouds were so amazing with the dark clouds of the West bearing down on the white, lavender, grey and blue clouds from the Pacific Ocean. Once again we jumped into that now very dirty red coach and drove down gravel and stone roads. We finally arrived in Oamaru and stayed in a very old hostel downtown.
All was going fairly well until Joel and I went out to the back parking lot to view some penguins around 11pm. They have nests everywhere! They are in between buildings and in alleys and under pallets in the warehouse district and you find them under cars and in the grass and along the railroad tracks--I kid you not. I had heard them calling and we thought we'd take a quick look. On the way, in the alley we ran into a couple of young Dutch guys who were dairy farmers. They were swigging beers and obviously drunk. They followed us out and we all watched the penguins for a while. When we left them, we explained that they are light sensitive (so no flash photography) and they are afraid of humans (so do not get near them) and that they call one another as a way of finding their nests. I went back to the hostel and looked out a window from the third floor and saw these jerks beating the bushes with a large board and the other guys attempting to pick up the baby penguins. They were also video taping (with light ofcourse) the entire process. We were livid and so we went out in the rain to reason with them. They said they understood. . ..well, it continued after we left and then Joel was really mad and grabbed a young Israeli guy from the hostel and the two of them went down there to confront these idiots. Joel was yelling into their faces. Around midnight these morons came in with several more beers and created quite a ruckus. They were loud and obnoxious--made a big burning mess in the kitchen--and we were all very unhappy. We tried several times to ring the manager, but without success. So, I did not sleep.
When morning came, we packed as quickly as we could. In the breakfast room, our friend Alex read these guys the riot act. Then Joel got into with them again. They never apologized--A-holes. I hope karma catches up with them. We found new accommodations at a motor inn and then planned on fishing for the afternoon. Yesterday, we had gone to the local sporting goods store to get some advice and pick up some new flies. The sea run trout are running up through the mouth of the Waikati and they are huge! We picked up some fish imitation patterns and some larger wooly buggers. (I'd been carrying #10--but evidently these beasts like them in #4 through #8). We got the low down on the roads and gates to pass. . . ..to be continued.
Mt Cook did not happen--boohoo. The morning that we were to leave for Mt Cook the a huge storm rolled in accompanied by torrential rains. We took our time with breakfast and packing, hoping that the weather would turn. We checked various reports and webcams and decided (unhappily) that it was not safe to travel the road up the mountain and if we did so, we would not be able to hike the trails or see the incredible views. It was a hard decision because we were also forfeiting two nights stay at the Lodge. Alex was suddenly without plans, as well, since she had planned on hitching a ride with us. So the three of us poured over maps and it was clear that in order to escape the storm, we would have to head back to the East coast. The Kiwis call a storm like this a "blowover"--and they advised us not to fight it. It will hang on for days and if you arrange a trip around hiking and fishing activities--well, you know the answer to that. We had planned on fishing Lake Ohau and the salmon canals outside of Lake Tekapo, but that was not to be. So, we packed the car and drove out of Wanaka with some sadness because it is such a special place.
We drove back through Tarras and then north through Omarama along the Waikati River and dam systems. The Waikati flow is fed by Lake Wanaka, Lake Tekapo and Lake Ohau. It is dammed in several places and provides most of the energy for NZ. We cleared the mountains and lupine filled valleys and made our way down. The skies turned blue and the sun came out and we were happy as clams. We stopped along the tops of the dams and admired the incredible ingenuity involved in the design and construction of these massive structures. We drove back and forth across the river through a system of one way bridges eyeing fishing areas and finally stopped to have our lunch on the shore while watching terns and oyster catchers dive into the river. The clouds were so amazing with the dark clouds of the West bearing down on the white, lavender, grey and blue clouds from the Pacific Ocean. Once again we jumped into that now very dirty red coach and drove down gravel and stone roads. We finally arrived in Oamaru and stayed in a very old hostel downtown.
All was going fairly well until Joel and I went out to the back parking lot to view some penguins around 11pm. They have nests everywhere! They are in between buildings and in alleys and under pallets in the warehouse district and you find them under cars and in the grass and along the railroad tracks--I kid you not. I had heard them calling and we thought we'd take a quick look. On the way, in the alley we ran into a couple of young Dutch guys who were dairy farmers. They were swigging beers and obviously drunk. They followed us out and we all watched the penguins for a while. When we left them, we explained that they are light sensitive (so no flash photography) and they are afraid of humans (so do not get near them) and that they call one another as a way of finding their nests. I went back to the hostel and looked out a window from the third floor and saw these jerks beating the bushes with a large board and the other guys attempting to pick up the baby penguins. They were also video taping (with light ofcourse) the entire process. We were livid and so we went out in the rain to reason with them. They said they understood. . ..well, it continued after we left and then Joel was really mad and grabbed a young Israeli guy from the hostel and the two of them went down there to confront these idiots. Joel was yelling into their faces. Around midnight these morons came in with several more beers and created quite a ruckus. They were loud and obnoxious--made a big burning mess in the kitchen--and we were all very unhappy. We tried several times to ring the manager, but without success. So, I did not sleep.
When morning came, we packed as quickly as we could. In the breakfast room, our friend Alex read these guys the riot act. Then Joel got into with them again. They never apologized--A-holes. I hope karma catches up with them. We found new accommodations at a motor inn and then planned on fishing for the afternoon. Yesterday, we had gone to the local sporting goods store to get some advice and pick up some new flies. The sea run trout are running up through the mouth of the Waikati and they are huge! We picked up some fish imitation patterns and some larger wooly buggers. (I'd been carrying #10--but evidently these beasts like them in #4 through #8). We got the low down on the roads and gates to pass. . . ..to be continued.
Tuesday, December 8, 2009
Mt Iron and the Clutha River
Hi again,
After taking stock of our supplies, we went out and gathered more food and a 8GB memory stick to back up the photos. We spent the morning with our new friend from the UK, lingering over coffee and chatting about our lives. We then wolfed down lunch and headed out to climb Mt Iron. Not too impressed because after the Diamond Lake Hike (and others), it was liking climbing Pilot Butte in Bend. It was up a steep gravel road with nothing interesting around until you got to the top. The view was great in terms of getting our bearings and realizing that there was much more in the area than the few blocks that you see in the village. We hiked down and then drove north along Lake Hawea--zipping down gravel country roads aimlessly. We then stopped on the Clutha River and hiked along matuka trees that are just coming into bloom with little tiny white flowers. Beautiful curving stretches of blue green water with the mountains looming over. We ran into an old Kiwi guy who gave us the most incredible tips on fishing the areas in the Mackenzie Basin--cannot wait to hit the next bit of water! We are reminded once again of the incredible generosity and kindness of the Kiwi folk. We leave tomorrow for Mt Cook with Alex in tow. We're hoping to take our lunch on the banks of Lake Pukaki and then weather permitting, get in a brief hike when we get up there. The following day we will hike out to see the Hooker Glacier and once again I will face my phobia (fear of heights) and cross a couple of suspension walking bridges. Tonight we made a fabulous chicken burrito deluxe meal and knocked down a huge bottle of pale ale, followed by several rounds of billiards and ending the night with fresh strawberries and chocolate. It feels so hopelessly decadent . . .wish us luck--we need good weather on the drive up to Mt Cook. We have been lucky and fortunate thusfar and hope it continues. Hugs and kisses, Linny
After taking stock of our supplies, we went out and gathered more food and a 8GB memory stick to back up the photos. We spent the morning with our new friend from the UK, lingering over coffee and chatting about our lives. We then wolfed down lunch and headed out to climb Mt Iron. Not too impressed because after the Diamond Lake Hike (and others), it was liking climbing Pilot Butte in Bend. It was up a steep gravel road with nothing interesting around until you got to the top. The view was great in terms of getting our bearings and realizing that there was much more in the area than the few blocks that you see in the village. We hiked down and then drove north along Lake Hawea--zipping down gravel country roads aimlessly. We then stopped on the Clutha River and hiked along matuka trees that are just coming into bloom with little tiny white flowers. Beautiful curving stretches of blue green water with the mountains looming over. We ran into an old Kiwi guy who gave us the most incredible tips on fishing the areas in the Mackenzie Basin--cannot wait to hit the next bit of water! We are reminded once again of the incredible generosity and kindness of the Kiwi folk. We leave tomorrow for Mt Cook with Alex in tow. We're hoping to take our lunch on the banks of Lake Pukaki and then weather permitting, get in a brief hike when we get up there. The following day we will hike out to see the Hooker Glacier and once again I will face my phobia (fear of heights) and cross a couple of suspension walking bridges. Tonight we made a fabulous chicken burrito deluxe meal and knocked down a huge bottle of pale ale, followed by several rounds of billiards and ending the night with fresh strawberries and chocolate. It feels so hopelessly decadent . . .wish us luck--we need good weather on the drive up to Mt Cook. We have been lucky and fortunate thusfar and hope it continues. Hugs and kisses, Linny
Monday, December 7, 2009
Down Day
Hello all,
A fierce northwesterly moved in and brought rain, so no fishing today. We are taking time to reorganize our packs and food and upload photos to the computer. We feel lucky to have had such a gloriously beautiful sunny day yesterday when we took our hike up the mountain to take in the 360 views. When we returned, however, there was some sobering news. A hiker in the same park (Mt Aspiring) had fallen to his death. He'd been tramping with 9 others and had broken camp and was headed back down. We sometimes take for granted our own strengths and capabilities out here and forget just how dangerous the tracks are--they are quite steep and all it takes is one slip. The wind picks up and it can blow you right over. So sad. So, we will continue to evaluate each and every track and take our time. So, I am going out to stock up on food since there is nothing up at Mt Cook. I am hoping the weather improves because the road up to the mountain can be dicey--if it begins to snow, I really want to pick up some chains. But, we will go ahead as planned.
Today, we celebrate Joan and David's 1st anniversary and are reminded once again of the magic of love. We are so happy for them and will raise a glass this evening in honor of their bond. Much love, Linda
A fierce northwesterly moved in and brought rain, so no fishing today. We are taking time to reorganize our packs and food and upload photos to the computer. We feel lucky to have had such a gloriously beautiful sunny day yesterday when we took our hike up the mountain to take in the 360 views. When we returned, however, there was some sobering news. A hiker in the same park (Mt Aspiring) had fallen to his death. He'd been tramping with 9 others and had broken camp and was headed back down. We sometimes take for granted our own strengths and capabilities out here and forget just how dangerous the tracks are--they are quite steep and all it takes is one slip. The wind picks up and it can blow you right over. So sad. So, we will continue to evaluate each and every track and take our time. So, I am going out to stock up on food since there is nothing up at Mt Cook. I am hoping the weather improves because the road up to the mountain can be dicey--if it begins to snow, I really want to pick up some chains. But, we will go ahead as planned.
Today, we celebrate Joan and David's 1st anniversary and are reminded once again of the magic of love. We are so happy for them and will raise a glass this evening in honor of their bond. Much love, Linda
Sunday, December 6, 2009
48 hours of superlatives
Hi!!!
We left Queenstown early (couldn't wait to get out of there) and on the way stopped along the Kawarau River and stood on the bridge watching bungy jumpers scream their heads off. For all you Lord of the Ring fans, this river is where they filmed the scene for the Pillars of the Kings, which I thought was incredibly beautiful on film. However, it is even more spectacular than that--in fact, it is the most beautiful river that I have ever seen in my life! The film shows it as a grey color, but in fact, it is a milky emerald green. It winds and tumbles and curves all the way down beyond the town of Cromwell. We followed it all the way until we sadly had to turn north. Cromwell is an agricultural area on the edge of Lake Dunstun--lots of fruit and veges and so we stopped in a parking lot and filled a huge ziplock bag with every manner of salad green, poured some good ole Newman's dressing on and shook the bejeepers out of the bag and to the interest of all the Kiwis parked around us as we split it between to plastic bowls on the hood of the car, proceeded to eat and chomp until we could not take in one more green thing. We then headed north on the eastern shore of the lake and made an abrupt turn to the west toward Wanaka (an area where they filmed the Flight of the Ford). The drive was even more amazing than all the others we've taken--if that is somehow possible. The Mt Aspiring Mountain Range and Wilderness was before us as we drove through endless rolling hills of brown, pink, yellow, green topped by blue skies and puffy white clouds. The Clutha River came into view and it is the second most beautiful river that I have encountered. It is a milky turquoise blue with waves of emerald green. We crossed it via a narrow bridge and then curved around and Lake Wanaka came into view with the mountain range jutting straight up and surround the entire lake. The mountains are still snow capped and a warm wind was coming off the lake.
We thought we'd died and gone to the Ritz when we arrived at our hostel. Our room was ensuite!!! Shower and toilet, yeah!!!! Spacious and with a view of the lake. We gathered information from the DOC, left with maps and many plans. We took a brief walk around the lake, hopped in the car and surveyed the area, and then came back to make a fantastic spaghetti dinner that everyone was lusting after.
We met Alex, a 52 yo English woman who is traveling for a year. So, after a wonderful night's sleep, we rallied and packed lunches and daypacks with plans on hiking up Rocky Mountain to view the lakes, rivers, valleys and mountain ranges. We invited Alex and we all had a grand time hiking straight up through grassy areas, along a small lake, up lava and granite rocks and along very narrow cliff side paths. Every turn gave us breathtaking views and a view of more climbing ahead. We reached the summit and it was so worth it. I have never seen anything so amazing in my life. I want it to be one of the last images that I see when my time is up on this planet.
The wind picked up and we sat down in the grass to have our lunch. We left it reluctantly and with great memories. It was now quite hot working our way down the mountain and we looked forward to jumping into the lake. We're all quite sunburned/tanned. In the end, only Joel had the chutzpah to jump into the very cold water--and jump out just as quickly. We sunned ourselves until the later afternoon winds picked up and then came back to make a killer panfried noodles and stirfried vege dish that all the young folk looked at longingly as they stirred their pots of beans and ramen. Tomorrow we will try our hand at flyfishing the Clutha River as it rushes out of Lake Wanaka and then in the afternoon hike Mt Iron. On Wednesday, we leave for Mt Cook. We have invited Alex who will drive with us and hike with us and then we will put her on the bus and she will head south, as we head east. We will celebrate my birthday up there, on top of the world. We plan on hiking to the Hooker Glacier the very next day. The sun is just about ready to set down for the day lighting the clouds a fiery color against deep brooding gray blue clouds. It is paradise!! I love you all. L
We left Queenstown early (couldn't wait to get out of there) and on the way stopped along the Kawarau River and stood on the bridge watching bungy jumpers scream their heads off. For all you Lord of the Ring fans, this river is where they filmed the scene for the Pillars of the Kings, which I thought was incredibly beautiful on film. However, it is even more spectacular than that--in fact, it is the most beautiful river that I have ever seen in my life! The film shows it as a grey color, but in fact, it is a milky emerald green. It winds and tumbles and curves all the way down beyond the town of Cromwell. We followed it all the way until we sadly had to turn north. Cromwell is an agricultural area on the edge of Lake Dunstun--lots of fruit and veges and so we stopped in a parking lot and filled a huge ziplock bag with every manner of salad green, poured some good ole Newman's dressing on and shook the bejeepers out of the bag and to the interest of all the Kiwis parked around us as we split it between to plastic bowls on the hood of the car, proceeded to eat and chomp until we could not take in one more green thing. We then headed north on the eastern shore of the lake and made an abrupt turn to the west toward Wanaka (an area where they filmed the Flight of the Ford). The drive was even more amazing than all the others we've taken--if that is somehow possible. The Mt Aspiring Mountain Range and Wilderness was before us as we drove through endless rolling hills of brown, pink, yellow, green topped by blue skies and puffy white clouds. The Clutha River came into view and it is the second most beautiful river that I have encountered. It is a milky turquoise blue with waves of emerald green. We crossed it via a narrow bridge and then curved around and Lake Wanaka came into view with the mountain range jutting straight up and surround the entire lake. The mountains are still snow capped and a warm wind was coming off the lake.
We thought we'd died and gone to the Ritz when we arrived at our hostel. Our room was ensuite!!! Shower and toilet, yeah!!!! Spacious and with a view of the lake. We gathered information from the DOC, left with maps and many plans. We took a brief walk around the lake, hopped in the car and surveyed the area, and then came back to make a fantastic spaghetti dinner that everyone was lusting after.
We met Alex, a 52 yo English woman who is traveling for a year. So, after a wonderful night's sleep, we rallied and packed lunches and daypacks with plans on hiking up Rocky Mountain to view the lakes, rivers, valleys and mountain ranges. We invited Alex and we all had a grand time hiking straight up through grassy areas, along a small lake, up lava and granite rocks and along very narrow cliff side paths. Every turn gave us breathtaking views and a view of more climbing ahead. We reached the summit and it was so worth it. I have never seen anything so amazing in my life. I want it to be one of the last images that I see when my time is up on this planet.
The wind picked up and we sat down in the grass to have our lunch. We left it reluctantly and with great memories. It was now quite hot working our way down the mountain and we looked forward to jumping into the lake. We're all quite sunburned/tanned. In the end, only Joel had the chutzpah to jump into the very cold water--and jump out just as quickly. We sunned ourselves until the later afternoon winds picked up and then came back to make a killer panfried noodles and stirfried vege dish that all the young folk looked at longingly as they stirred their pots of beans and ramen. Tomorrow we will try our hand at flyfishing the Clutha River as it rushes out of Lake Wanaka and then in the afternoon hike Mt Iron. On Wednesday, we leave for Mt Cook. We have invited Alex who will drive with us and hike with us and then we will put her on the bus and she will head south, as we head east. We will celebrate my birthday up there, on top of the world. We plan on hiking to the Hooker Glacier the very next day. The sun is just about ready to set down for the day lighting the clouds a fiery color against deep brooding gray blue clouds. It is paradise!! I love you all. L
Friday, December 4, 2009
Now in Queenstown
Hello all,
Oh man this is going to be tough reconstructing the last few days--they are flying by and each experience is unique and extraordinary. So we left Milford Sound and those motherf'ng sandflies (and I am being kind). We did the long beautiful road back in reverse and still stopped along the way to admire the glaciers, mountains, rivers, flowers, and on an on and on . . . we left early in the morning with the cloud mist on us and it was eerie and peaceful. We stopped once more in the Eglinton Valley to view the lupines--this time we walked right down into a huge field of them. We made a picnic lunch and had it by the lake to take in the view one last time. We stocked up in Te Anau and headed east from there to our destination, Garston. The landscape changed dramatically from fiords, mountains, alpine lakes, firs and beech to round hills of many colors of brown and rust and yellow. The fields were full of farmed reindeer and deer. We were to stop initially in Lumsden, thinking it a town of some size according to the map. It is a good thing that I didn't book our lodging there and also glad that I had decided at the last minute to shop in Te Anau. Lumsden is like an old blown over cowboy town--long ago forgotten. To give you an idea: we stopped at the Isite (these are information sites located everywhere in NZ to collect booklets about the various areas) and it was located in an old train station that was now split in half--one side the information area and the other a crocheted and knitting shop which you enter first. If you go into the Isite, the old lady from the knitting shop closes up her till and makes her way over to you. It was absolutely empty and cold. A young East Indian man walked in without baggage, backpack or anything else to indicate that he was traveling. He was wearing a scarf around his neck and had silver ostrich or leather cowboy boots with at least four to six inches of pointers on them. It really did look odd. He was inquiring about transportation--a bus maybe. I'm telling you, Lumsden is in the middle of nowhere! Unclear how he even got there. But then we saw him later hitching down the road. Very strange. When we asked about a fishing license, we were told to go across the street to the "chemist" shop--that would be a pharmacy to you northlanders. Pharmacy is generous-- a kind of everything little shop.
We headed to our arranged lodging: an old (130 yrs) stone cottage on a farm. It had been totally renovated on the inside, but had this incredible charm about it. The proprietors, John and Avis MacIver, were the most generous, salt of the earth kind of people. We thought we'd landed at the Ritz--full modern farm kitchen, 3 bedrooms, washer and dryer, a shower with enough power to shoot you across the sheep field (I worry about their pipes), a setting to die for--and so much more. Within minutes, after expressing our desire to fish, John had us jump into his four wheel drive. (BTW, he is 70) Before you know it, I was jumping in and out of the truck to open paddocks, let the truck through, and then shut the gate. He drove right through the middle of fields with sheep running out of the way, and took us straight to the river's edge on his neighbor's property. I followed him as he stomped through razor sharp grass, nettles and sheep shit in his usual Kiwi dress: shorts and rubber boots. He pointed out a huge brown trout in a pool of water under some willow trees and then we hopped back into the truck to change our clothes and grab our gear. We fished every day for sometimes 7 hours in the sun, the wind, the rain, whatever. I've never walked in so much sheep crap in my whole life. Every night Joel would have to hose our boots down only to mess them up the very next day. But the pay off was that I caught my first huge brown trout (somewhere over 7 lbs--AND Boyd Lyle, I am not shitting you!)
The kitchen allowed us to do a lot more cooking and I went a little nuts: crepes with nutella and bananas, crepes with cinnamon and sugared apples, curried veges over basmati rice, a lovely vege stew with fresh bread. While there I also fixed Avis' computer--clean out virus and optimized her system. It was hard leaving such a lovely place and such wonderful people.
We left for Queenstown this morning on a fine sunny day. Avis had just hung out her laundry and it was waving in the light breeze. The honeysuckle at the front entry was so fragrant and the climbing roses and wisteria surrounding her inner yard were in full bloom. A stunning ride through country fields and then along Lake Wakapitu with the Remarkables range and finally the town. Qtown is like Aspen--boutique shops, lots of tourists, every imaginable activity (paragliding, jet boats, gondola rides, biking, boating, helicopter rides. The setting is unspeakably beautiful, but the whole scene is not my thing. As Avis said before we left: I really don't care for the cities, I prefer the quiet of the country life. Micah had warned us and so we only booked one night in a hostel and leave in the morning for Lake Wanaka and back to hiking and fishing. We'll be there for three days before heading up to Mt Cook for a couple of days. It is all actually quite tiring. Are days are long and filled and I am sleeping so hard for the first time in years. Now, I am not complaining--
Sending much love from the far, far south. xo Linny
Oh man this is going to be tough reconstructing the last few days--they are flying by and each experience is unique and extraordinary. So we left Milford Sound and those motherf'ng sandflies (and I am being kind). We did the long beautiful road back in reverse and still stopped along the way to admire the glaciers, mountains, rivers, flowers, and on an on and on . . . we left early in the morning with the cloud mist on us and it was eerie and peaceful. We stopped once more in the Eglinton Valley to view the lupines--this time we walked right down into a huge field of them. We made a picnic lunch and had it by the lake to take in the view one last time. We stocked up in Te Anau and headed east from there to our destination, Garston. The landscape changed dramatically from fiords, mountains, alpine lakes, firs and beech to round hills of many colors of brown and rust and yellow. The fields were full of farmed reindeer and deer. We were to stop initially in Lumsden, thinking it a town of some size according to the map. It is a good thing that I didn't book our lodging there and also glad that I had decided at the last minute to shop in Te Anau. Lumsden is like an old blown over cowboy town--long ago forgotten. To give you an idea: we stopped at the Isite (these are information sites located everywhere in NZ to collect booklets about the various areas) and it was located in an old train station that was now split in half--one side the information area and the other a crocheted and knitting shop which you enter first. If you go into the Isite, the old lady from the knitting shop closes up her till and makes her way over to you. It was absolutely empty and cold. A young East Indian man walked in without baggage, backpack or anything else to indicate that he was traveling. He was wearing a scarf around his neck and had silver ostrich or leather cowboy boots with at least four to six inches of pointers on them. It really did look odd. He was inquiring about transportation--a bus maybe. I'm telling you, Lumsden is in the middle of nowhere! Unclear how he even got there. But then we saw him later hitching down the road. Very strange. When we asked about a fishing license, we were told to go across the street to the "chemist" shop--that would be a pharmacy to you northlanders. Pharmacy is generous-- a kind of everything little shop.
We headed to our arranged lodging: an old (130 yrs) stone cottage on a farm. It had been totally renovated on the inside, but had this incredible charm about it. The proprietors, John and Avis MacIver, were the most generous, salt of the earth kind of people. We thought we'd landed at the Ritz--full modern farm kitchen, 3 bedrooms, washer and dryer, a shower with enough power to shoot you across the sheep field (I worry about their pipes), a setting to die for--and so much more. Within minutes, after expressing our desire to fish, John had us jump into his four wheel drive. (BTW, he is 70) Before you know it, I was jumping in and out of the truck to open paddocks, let the truck through, and then shut the gate. He drove right through the middle of fields with sheep running out of the way, and took us straight to the river's edge on his neighbor's property. I followed him as he stomped through razor sharp grass, nettles and sheep shit in his usual Kiwi dress: shorts and rubber boots. He pointed out a huge brown trout in a pool of water under some willow trees and then we hopped back into the truck to change our clothes and grab our gear. We fished every day for sometimes 7 hours in the sun, the wind, the rain, whatever. I've never walked in so much sheep crap in my whole life. Every night Joel would have to hose our boots down only to mess them up the very next day. But the pay off was that I caught my first huge brown trout (somewhere over 7 lbs--AND Boyd Lyle, I am not shitting you!)
The kitchen allowed us to do a lot more cooking and I went a little nuts: crepes with nutella and bananas, crepes with cinnamon and sugared apples, curried veges over basmati rice, a lovely vege stew with fresh bread. While there I also fixed Avis' computer--clean out virus and optimized her system. It was hard leaving such a lovely place and such wonderful people.
We left for Queenstown this morning on a fine sunny day. Avis had just hung out her laundry and it was waving in the light breeze. The honeysuckle at the front entry was so fragrant and the climbing roses and wisteria surrounding her inner yard were in full bloom. A stunning ride through country fields and then along Lake Wakapitu with the Remarkables range and finally the town. Qtown is like Aspen--boutique shops, lots of tourists, every imaginable activity (paragliding, jet boats, gondola rides, biking, boating, helicopter rides. The setting is unspeakably beautiful, but the whole scene is not my thing. As Avis said before we left: I really don't care for the cities, I prefer the quiet of the country life. Micah had warned us and so we only booked one night in a hostel and leave in the morning for Lake Wanaka and back to hiking and fishing. We'll be there for three days before heading up to Mt Cook for a couple of days. It is all actually quite tiring. Are days are long and filled and I am sleeping so hard for the first time in years. Now, I am not complaining--
Sending much love from the far, far south. xo Linny
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