Final Transmission Part 1

Hi,
We took the boat out six or seven miles from Kaikoura and tracked 3 sperm whales. We were able to move within 40 feet of them watching them blow and then finally taking deeps breath and diving which revealed their flukes. If that wasn't fantastic enough--we watched 60 or 70 Duster dolphins jump out of the water and twirl then diving and swimming next to the boat. I've never seen so many dolphins in my life--in one or event or cumulatively! It was so joyful--I could have stayed out there forever with them. We went on a couple of hikes before heading down to Gore Bay where we spent 3 days in the sun--hiking in the nearby hills and walking on the beach. We watched surfers, birds soaring, clouds floating, beautiful sunrises and sunsets, children running in and out of the surf with such glee, and the ever changing sea. When everything was packed up for that final drive down the coast, we said our goodbyes to our great hosts and made our way to the Christchurch airport. Everything went without a hitch until we got to the Vancouver airport. This beautiful private airport was our choice for a transfer into the US because of previous trips that we'd take through this very efficient and clean port. However, with all the recent scares security was intense and thorough. Customs took over two hours and was an organizational nightmare. They are not at all prepared for the coming Olympics. We walked out the tarmac to the airplane in a cold rain. When we arrived in Portland, we again walked out onto the tarmac with cold rain and wind and pools of water on the asphalt. It was dark! Rude return after many days in the sun and sunsets that began at 9PM. We were picked up by Micah and Emily and then joined by David and Joan and had a wonderful dinner together. I feel so lucky to have them in my life and to be reunited. It feels strange and yet good to be home again. There will be a couple of posts in the coming days to wrap up this great NZ journey--mostly observations we'd made along the way. Hope you are all toasty warm and in good health. Much love, Linny

Sunny and Beautiful Kaikoura

Hey all,
Now I know we're relaxing--we did our laundry this morning before anything else.
Yesterday afternoon we hiked into the bush just below Mt Fyffe. Before we started out we met an Irish man and his son, who were making their way to Queenstown to his other son's wedding. Declan and Cormac--just another couple of wonderful people that we have met on this journey--it gives me hope that the world is not completely screwed up. We then headed up the trail which was initially through farmland and then into dense, dark, jungle-like bush. One of the strangest hikes we have taken--not sure what it was--just dark and humid which made me want to step up the pace and get back into the cow pastures.
This afternoon we hiked the peninsula (again). This time the winds were not 50mph, but gentle and warm. We hiked the cliffs above the ocean to the South Bay and then turned around and hiked down to the rocky shore and watched the birds and seals and the every changing waves and clouds. We took our time--taking in every shape and color--knowing that we will probably not see it again. We then watched a storm roll in from the south and work its way up the coast towards us. The swells in the ocean increased and waves began to roll in larger and more frequently. The black oyster catchers were squawking at us and swooping toward us for coming too close to their nests. We stayed until 6pm or so and then made that last trip out from the point, passing the BBQ seafood shack, the old wharf and through the small, but busy town full of sun seeking tourists. We dropped all our extra food off at the local hostel. We then had the best Indian food we have ever had anywhere--OMG--Northern Indian food that made us sweat to the point of dripping. It was lovingly prepared by a Sikh couple who came to the table and before we ordered said: Order anything on the menu and we will make it so that it is the very best that you will ever have. Wow--they weren't kidding!
Tomorrow we catch a boat at 6:45 am and head out 7 miles into the Pacific Ocean to hang with the whales. When we return midday we will drive south to Gore Bay and spend the last three days here on the beach. It's been wonderful, but we are ready to come home. Sending you all much love, Linny

Back in Kaikoura

Hello!
Our hosts in Picton were UK expats from Dorset. We also met young (thirty-ish) expats from Texas while staying in Picton. We had some pretty intense discussions regarding the state of the UK and the States. They all wanted to escape the increased crime and living conditions in both the UK and the States. It is interesting to hear varying perspectives--not much of it favorable to the UK/US. There is the exception though: a number of Kiwis have an image of the US that they have seen in films--LA and NYC are glorified on the big screen and many foreigners think that it is just like that!
After another fine Indian meal--we spent our last night in the north and headed down the coast the following morning. We got the last room in Kaikoura! There is a 4 day holiday here that begins Jan 1st and everybody travels--especially to the warmer coastline. On the way, we stopped at a crayfish stand and had lobster and mussels that had just been pulled up out of the ocean. We tried yesterday and today to get on board a whale watching boat--but everything is booked solid. So, we will take the 6:45 AM boat on Tuesday morning before heading further south to Gore Bay to finish out the trip. While waiting for information we watched a couple of dolphins playing in the surf. I am trying to talk myself into a couple of hikes--one toward Mt Fyffe. I have to admit to feeling a little lazy in this warm weather. So, I've lingered over the paper (all of 3 minutes here) and breakfast and snack and tea . . . and well, I'm about ready to hang the boots up. Hope you are all fine and healthy. Much love, L