Our stay in Lisbon

We looked forward to warmth and sunshine in Portugal after a very cold and windy week in Amsterdam. We were blessed with daily rain and overcast skies, and both Linny and I spent most of the last few days sick. We did manage to rally and see the highlights. We rented a wonderful apartment on the Rua Prata in Baixo, the main downtown just up from the wharf. Amsterdam (indeed all of the Netherlands) is flat. Lisbon is situated among seven steep hills next to the River Tejo, picturesque like San Francisco. Lisbon's economy is suffering. Buildings are tired looking, nothing has been painted in generations, it seems. And yet. Everywhere are red tile roofs. And as was common in Portugal in the 18th and 19th centuries (and before), many buildings' facades are covered with tile. We have never seen so much beautiful tile. We saw most of the town by public transportation. First the electric trams. These 1920's cars ride rails, use overhead electricity, and manage up and down the hills with ease. The number 12 took us from the main square around the hill containing the old Moorish neighborhood, the Alfama. The streets are narrow. There isn't room for the tram and anything else, car, person. And there is no reverse. So--several times we had to wait until the road was clear so we could proceed. The Alfama itself, now home to diverse refugies from around the world (and former Portuguese colonies) is very poor, with many abandoned buildings falling into ruin. Depressing, really.




One day we took the bus to Belem, a part of Lisbon on the far western side. Here are the very famous tower, or Torre da Belem. First stop was the National coach museum, containing carriages which had belonged to the royal family. Perhaps seventy of them. It was wonderful to imagine them hitched up to horses, dressed up horsemen, and royalty inside. Next to the museum is a famous pastry shop, selling pastellerias de Nata--wonderful butter pastry shells filled with warm, delicious custard. The line extended into the street. And for good reason. The Jeronimos monastery was next--an extraordinary church with detailed cloister, and finally a visit to the Belem tower--part of Portugal's defense from the sea, and now a famous symbol of Portugal.




Another day we took the train to Sintra, a small town 40 miles to the west, Famous for two palaces which were home to the Portuguese royalty, the National Palace, and Palace da Pena. Sintra is a beautiful place and is not to be missed on any visit to Portugal. The National Palace is full of sumptuous tile, grand rooms, and an amazing massive kitchen ventilated by huge, conical chimneys. The town is full of touristy restaurants and curio shops. You take a bus up a steep, winding narrow road to the top of the hill where initially a monastery was built, but then taken over and converted into the king's palace, the Palacio da Pena. The style is Moorish, with turrets, unusual shapes, extraordinary tile, and surrounded by many acres of parkland full of hand-selected trees and shrubs. The day was misty and rainy. We caught a few glimpses of blue which told us that spectacular views of the ocean to the south and west would be had on a clear day. Other highlights of Lisbon included a visit to the national tile museum. Tile is a big deal in Portugal, a source of national pride, and for good reason. We have at least 100 photos of tile, and there will be more. This museum is in a former convent adjoining a church. We did not realize that a view into the church was part of the museum visit--and a wedding was taking place. We got to see the bride and groom kiss at the end. Today, our last day in Lisbon, we went out to the Gulbenkian museum. This is one of the most beautiful museums I have ever seen--containing the personal collection of an Armenian businessman who was involved in opening up the Iranian oil fields. Extraordinary! Art --Monet, Manet, Degas, Renoir, Rembrandt, Hals and many others; Chinese porcelain, Persian tile, rugs. It was fabulous. Few people there (it is out of the way, and well worth getting there).




Lisbon thoughts. Portugal has been through a tough couple hundred years. This was once a grand place, enriched by Portugal's exploration and "discovery" of routes west and east (remember Megellan, Vasco da Gamma?) The earthquake of 1755 leveled Lisbon, but allowed a grand city plan resulting in an elegant, designed downtown. Much of the 20th century saw the end of the monarchy only to be replaced by an "enlightened" depot. Democracy is new here, not unlike Spain. Only Portugal is much poorer. Entry into the European Union has brought new development, but dramatic increase in prices. Portugal is poor, no question. There is construction, here and there, but all is by hand. Large rocks are chiseled by hand to fill in the rail lines and streets. Signage is poor. Sites are disorganized. Museums, ticket offices, could all benefit from a few more employees and organization. We waited in lines--for buses that never came, or came and just didn't pick anyone up. Simple signs pointing to a bus stop, or the way to a major site coming out of the Metro, as you see in the netherlands, or France, or Spain, just aren't there. Tourism is a major, important source of income here. They need to capitalize on it.
Tomorrow we pick up a rental car and head south--initially the walled ancient city of Monsaraz, and then the south coast, or Algarve.
Until the next--Joel




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