Akaroa to Oamaru

Hello all--

I am seated looking Southeast, the sun down but still barely lighting the clouds. There is a bank of windows forming a 180 degree view of the ocean and the darkened outline of the Otago Peninsula in the distance. We are staying at an incredible hostel that is on the slope of a hill overlooking the Pacific Ocean. The water here is an incredible light turquoise blue with an indigo horizon--really indescribable. We were sad to leave our new friends in Akaroa. We lingered in the sun a bit before we made our way down the narrow, winding roads again. The drive here was unremarkable except for the incredible Remarkables--snow-covered and off to my right. Long drive but we got here, hit the grocery again for tonight's dinner (sauteed mushrooms, steamed broccoli, bread and cheese, and a bottle of Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc), checked in, got back in the car and drove back to Oamaru to view the fascinating architecture (lots of limestone buildings with Corinthian columns, ornate buildings that look like they belong in Europe) and the old warehouse district along the waterfront, and then on to the lookout point at dusk to see the yellow-eyed penguins come in from the ocean, cross the beach and enter the brush to their nests. Well, it was a windy 35 degrees or so. Standing around for an hour freezing--I think I got the one great picture of all the folks who were camera ready. I happened to eye a penguin going into the ocean rather than coming out and snapped him. Thank goodness for those down jackets (again), but we were wishing we had gloves and hats as well. Snow flurries were coming down and we saw a total of 5 penguins, so we called it a day knowing that we would have further opportunities. We made a BIG chocolate run, and then came back to a warm dwelling and rustled up dinner. Music is very strange down here--much of it old stuff. We don't turn on the radio, but at the hostels the Germans in particular like to have a little ska music background. . ..oh well, to each his own. It is distracting though. Tomorrow we head further South--first to the Moeraki Boulders, and then on to Dunedin and the Otago Peninsula for several days. After that, we will be in the Caitlins and the Southland before turning North through Tuatapere and on to Manapouri, Te Anau, Doubtful Sound, Milford Sound, fishing in Garston for a few days, Queenstown, and points further North. Will keep you posted, of course. New words: rumbles (which are rail road track crossings), kumara (yams) and new billboards: rest, revive, alive (along the highways); free reviver stops (little free coffee stands). We plan on stopping at first opportunity to buy knit caps knowing that the weather has been unseasonably cold. Love to all. L