Endless coastal road

Hi, I think it's been some six days since writing--I've lost all track of time which is good. Unless I look at my rough itinerary, I have no idea what day it is. We left Dunedin and that dirty, rotten thing called a hostel and headed out the narrow and winding road that hugs the harbor all the way out the Otago Peninsula. We had cancelled the remaining stay in Dunedin and arranged to stay in a farmstay in Portobello. The road is at the level of the water and you realize immediately that one false turn, one too many beers, one swerve to avoid a rabbit and you are in the drink! We went to the Albatross Centre at the very end of the point, but sadly, they were nesting and not in view. But we had a terrific time anyway: photographing and sighting a number of shag nests with new ones and the great white Royal Spoonbill and ofcourse the magnificent ocean of many blues. We then went on and took a tour via small bus on bumpy gravel washboard roads to view the yellow-eyed penguins. We hid in various blinds and hiked around the bush to see them sitting on top of newborns. We watched a lone one make the trek out to the sea, but I pushed the wrong button and lost the photo--oh well, it's all up here (pointing to head). We made our way to the lovely McFarmer's place and to the generous and kind home of John and Lyn. We were set up in a very rustic cabin that overlooked the harbor. We shared with two other couples: one from Spain (our first encounter was after they'd had a spat in their car) and the second, an Israeli couple who were extremely inconsiderate. Argh--the kind that don't clean up after themselves. We took the time to chat it up with the proprietors and it was well worth it. John's family had lived on the peninsula for many generations and he was born there. There were sheep and chickens and rail tracks that he set himself. He loves trains and so had constructed this elaborate system to run a small train all over the acreage. A true Renaissance man. There were handmade fences and pergolas--all of materials collected on the property. He'd built and outdoor kiln to fire pots. His wife, Lyn, was raised on a sheep station in the far West and therefore accustomed to the hard life. She was trained as a nurse but was home with two small children and when not collecting eggs, herding sheep, etc. would make balms of calendula. She sent me off with a little jar and two freshly laid eggs.
The next day we hiked and hiked. First to Allan's Beach, a pristine stretch of sea that hugs the bush. We then went on up the top of the cliffs that overlook the beaches--once again jumping fences and walking through farmland. The hike down was great--the hike up was dreadful and this is why. That day the northern winds had come in bringing the sun (yay) and the fierce dry winds and so we had the first opportunity to put on shorts. The hike back from the cliffs were up dunes that were covered in gorce (sic). Gorce has evolved over time from the common broom. It is similar in appearance with a golden flower, but it is also covered in prickles. The path did not appear to be frequented and so was covered in nettles and gorce. Walking through that with sand footholds was sheer misery. I think I may have bitched a little on that climb back. We cleaned up and took in a wonderful dinner in the only restaurant in this sleepy hamlet. We'd brought plenty of warm clothes because we intended to do the "night vigil" to view the incoming fairy penguins--little blue penguins--the smallest in the world, measuring the size of your shoe. If you are patient and have good sight in the dark and you sit very close to the ground, they will swim in in groups (called rafts) and walk up the beach and through the bush to get to their nests. Well we did what we planned and were well rewarded. We drove the scary dark road along the water after midnight. When we got tucked in ready for a good night's sleep, our Israeli roomies popped in around 1AM. They made a ruckus and went to bed and talked and talked and talked. We were none too happy so Joel got out of bed a rapped on the wall and it ended immediately. Let us say that the following morning was a bit uncomfortable. We packed up, reluctant to leave our new friends who gave up tips on further travels, which proved to be very important . . . . .
Going to save this now because I'm afraid this computer might lose everything. xo L